Kilkus Photo
A photography journal by Christopher Kilkus
Fashion

Behind the Scenes of a Fashion Shoot

A finished image hides a small, fast-moving operation. Here is what is actually happening just out of frame.

Behind the Scenes of a Fashion Shoot — photography by Chris Kilkus

A polished fashion picture looks effortless, which is exactly the illusion it is meant to create. Out of frame, a shoot is a small operation of specialists moving fast, and the photographer's real job is as much orchestration as it is exposure.

The day starts before the day

By the time the first frame is shot, the important decisions are mostly made: the references are agreed, the looks are pulled, the cast is confirmed and the light is roughed in. A good prep day buys you a calm set, and a calm set is where good pictures happen. Improvisation is wonderful, but it works best on a foundation that was planned.

A team, not a soloist

Stylist, hair, make-up, set, assistants, client — each person is solving a different problem at the same moment, and the photographer is the one holding the single image in their head that all of it serves. Part of the craft is protecting that image from the dozens of small compromises a long day invites, while staying open to the better idea someone on the team will inevitably have.

Catching the in-between

The frames that survive the edit are often not the posed ones. They are the half-second when a model laughs at something off-camera, or adjusts a sleeve, or simply breathes. Keeping the energy up so those moments keep happening — and being ready when they do — is most of the job. The rest is light.